The Amazing Monopatia Mountain Resort, Ano Pedina, Zagori

It came as a surprise to discover the world-class Monopatia Mountain Resort restaurant in the small Zagori village of Ano Pedina. It opened in January 2011.

Managed by Vasilios Paparounas, the brochure rightly describes it as “a year-round destination for discerning nature lovers and enthusiasts of traditional architecture”.

The whole complex has been restored to the highest standards of traditional Zagori stone architectural integrity and detail (eg characteristic decorative-functional ironwork) and the contemporary interior design, from the spotless modern kitchen to the ceiling lighting, the windows, and the solid oak floorboards, provides a feeling of cosmopolitan spaciousness and refined artistic taste. There are many fine works of art on display throughout the buildings.

We were invited to inspect a number of the lodging areas, which range from manor house rooms, to cottages and suites, and we were impressed by the immaculate presentation and standard of comfort in every area. The combination of traditional antique Epirot elements with crisply elegant modern design appealed to us.

Most impressive of all was the view from the restored threshing floor, or aloni.

The prices for accommodation are (understandably) high for the area, and the wine cellar is well stocked; the list includes some very special and expensive wines, but the restaurant offers a range of deliciously cooked and beautifully presented specialities, which are very reasonably priced and affordable.

We couldn’t stop raving about the mushroom pilaf. The entrees and sweets were fabulous too. Service was outstanding.

Vasilios Paparonas, who comes from Ano Pedina, but who has had long experience of managing some top Athenian restaurants, is also an expert on mushrooms, and collects them daily in the forests. The many naturally organic vegetables and other local ingredients used at Monopatia make a meal here a unique culinary experience. There are distinctive elements of innovative fusions (the CD playing in the background was a collaboration between Petroloukas Halkias, a noted Epirot clarinet player, and Indian musicians, flute, sitar, tabla) and  ecological Zagori nouvelle cuisine. 

This must surely be one of the best restaurants in Greece; I can say this even while remaining fiercely loyal to the restaurants and xenonas in my own adopted village a few miles up the road.